Wednesday, 13 July 2022

A LAND WORTH FIGHTING FOR - Review of ON GALLOWS DOWN by Nicola Chester

 

A LAND WORTH FIGHTING FOR

ON GALLOWS DOWN – a memoir

Place, Protest and Belonging

Nicola Chester

Nicola Chester’s highly descriptive book is packed with personal anecdotes and political observations about her local North Wessex Downs chalk landscape. This comprises of Highclere Castle, (the location for Downton Abbey) Inkpen Beacon with its gallows, Watership Down, Greenham Common and Newbury, where Chester moved to in her junior school years after her father, a firefighter, began work there.

What shines through is Chester’s love for the countryside, the wildlife and ordinary people, many descended from families from generations ago.

Chester grew up alongside Greenham Common Women’s Peace Camp, the women that opposed the UK’s agreement to house American nuclear weapons on the Common. Unlike many locals, she admired, despite lacking political awareness, the women - and it’s a spirit of protest that has never left her.

Chester also ‘resented the American soldiers for their perceived warmongering.’ She was delighted that when the Americans did finally leave the airbase it was bought by West Berkshire Council in 1997 and a massive conservation project that has regenerated the heathland was started.

Chester’s book highlights a rich seam of local resistance and she herself actively opposed - on the very spot where the Roundheads and Cavaliers had battled one another during the English Civil War – the construction of the Newbury Road Bypass. The dissent, peaking in 1996, led to some of the largest anti-road protests in European History in which over 800 people were arrested and nearly 10,000 mature trees were felled.

Chester highlights the subsequent massive loss of habitat and wildlife by charting the evocative singing of a nightingale but whose attempts to find a partner over 4 consecutive summers inevitably fail as by now the nearest nightingale colony is four miles away at Greenham Common. It is a tale of great sorrow consistent with many other locations internationally.  

Chester beautifully describes local landscapes that she regularly walks, often with her three children and/or a gamekeeper. She constantly highlights the struggles of wildlife to survive when pitched against the needs of commerce such that by 1970 pesticides had killed off 96% of the otter population, which is thankfully now slowly recovering.

Chester, who in her mid-20s became the first member of her family to attend a university, is a librarian and a regular columnist for the RSPB members’ magazine, Nature’s Home. She is a tenant with her husband, a paramedic, on a large estate. It means if she hopes to preserve landscape practices suitable for wildlife, such as the badger cubs she gets remarkably close to, then she must seek to persuade landowners to take up government stewardship projects and work with conservation groups.

It is a struggle with mixed results. This mirrors the historical experiences of local people. In 1830 some of them unsuccessfully revolted as part of the Captain Swing uprising by agricultural workers in southern and eastern England against harsh working conditions and rural poverty brought on in part by the loss of common land. One of those involved, Walter Winterbourne, was sentenced to death and only recently pardoned. He was a relative of a tractor driver on the estate where Chester lives.

And it’s a struggle that remains ongoing as in Chester’s local schools today over a third of students’ families are in receipt of benefits and free school meals whilst a third of people live in rented, tied or council-owned homes.

These are squeezed in alongside private schools, second homes and big country estates on which very often food production is set aside for high paying visitors to shoot defenceless animals for sport.

Clearly the fight to save the environment is intimately connected with the need to create a much more equal society.  




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