Dirty work for diamonds and gold

Big Issue North - May 2018 

Liverpool-based brand commits to doing more 

Jewellery brands are failing to turn a commitment to ethical mining into practice, according to a mining union. 

Liverpool-based company Boodles was among 13 brands assessed by Human Rights Watch (HRW) in a report earlier this year that examined how they source their gold and diamonds. 

Brutal conditions 

Around 40 million workers, including one million children, depend on gold and diamond mining for their income. But HRW said mining conditions can be “brutal”, that children have been killed working and indigenous peoples have been forcibly displaced by mining companies. 

In Nigeria over 400 children have been killed following the unintentional release of lead from artisanal gold mining. 

HRW was told by a resident of Bria, Central African Republic, how two factions of the Seleka armed group had fought to control roads leading to local diamond mines. HRW found cases where civilians from the Peuhl ethnic group had been assassinated and was told by rebel commanders they needed access to the diamond mines. 

HRW said none of the 13 brands were excellent in their sourcing. 

Because Tiffany & Co could trace its gold to one Utah mine and undertook regular human rights assessments there, it scored “strong.” Bulgari, Cartier and Pandora were rated “moderate”. Rolex was unranked after it failed to reply to HRW’s requests. 

Boodles was “weak” because information about its supply chain, human rights due diligence and suppliers’ code of conduct is not public. It also does not conduct its own site investigations, nor back initiatives aimed at developing responsible small-scale mines. 

HRW found that “overall most companies we contacted directly recognise their human rights responsibilities and have made some efforts to responsibly source their gold and diamonds”. 

But Glen Mpufane, mining director of IndustriALL Global Union, which represents 50 million workers in the mining, energy and manufacturing sectors, criticised the industry practice for relying too much on certification from the Responsible Jewellery Council, which he said had “flawed governance, standards, and certification systems”. 

He said: “Following the HRW report we have combined with the Enough Project and 27 other NGOs, including Amnesty International, and trade unions in issuing a statement calling on jewellery companies to turn their commitment to responsible sourcing into effective action. 

“We also want the RJC to stop companies being certified even when they don’t support basic human rights. Governments too should require companies to undertake human rights diligence. 

“None of the existing mechanisms for preventing abuse have so far been adequate. We believe our networks can bring about a better standard.” 

Boodles, which has nine UK stores, was one of only two companies that responded
to HRW to pledge specific actions to improve their practices. It shared its three gold suppliers’ sourcing policies with HRW and said it would publish the suppliers’ names with their consent. 

Its spokesperson Emily Bull said: “We know we need to do more to ensure we source responsibly. Thus we will require all regular vendors to undertake comprehensive third-party audits and share these with us for review. 

“We are committed to ensuring ethical and sustainable sourcing of materials.” 

MARK METCALF